Tramping on the Routeburn Track: Southern Alps, New Zealand

Day 1
7.5 miles

From my first visit to New Zealand in 1998, I’ve wanted to hike one of New Zealand’s nine “Great Walks.”  I chose to hike the Routeburn Track because of its scenic alpine stretches and because it is less crowded than its world-famous neighbor, the Milford Track. I’m a mountain lover! 

Since I no longer can carry a heavy backpack, I decided to do the hike with Ultimate Hikes located in Queenstown. Their Lodges provide hot meals, hot showers and drying rooms. Although I had to carry my raingear, nightgear, hikinggear, and miscellaneous hiking stuff, I could easily handle the smaller pack.  Not having to heft a weighty pack with a stove, fuel, food, sleeping bag, etc. etc, my pack was relatively light at about 10lb. Once I signed up, I was eager to go. I had trained hard for weeks.

If you are interested in a guided hike in NZ, visit www.ultimatehikes.co.nz. 

The Routeburn’s trail connects two of New Zealand’s conservation jewels, Mt. Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks, via a high alpine pass named the Harris Saddle. The track traverses wild and scenic mountain country between the Hollyford and Dart Valleys. The 22 mile hike would take three days...  about 7 miles a day. 

Bob and I drove over to Queenstown the day before my hike began and spent the night. The next day, he dropped me off at 6:30am at the Ultimate Hikes Center and then spent his day golfing at Jack’s Point before returning to Wanaka.

Wide awake and ready to hike.

Day 1: Bus ride

After a 2 hr. scenic bus ride from Queenstown to Te Anau, we stopped for morning tea at a hotel. I had a cup of coffee and a scone with fresh cream and jam. (Nothing like a few extra calories to get the ‘motor running’ for an afternoon hike.) At Te Anau, we met up with the rest of our hiking group and after introductions, boarded the bus for an hour ride to The Divide, the beginning of our hike. We were a group of 22 hikers from the U.S., New Zealand and Australia. Our three young Kiwi guides would lead this diverse group for the next 3 days. Our ages spanned from the mid-40s to the oldest being 74.

Awesome Guides: Sadao, Fiona and Natasha. Bus Driver Alec.

Day 1: 4 hour hike 

My hike started on the Milford side of The Divide trailhead. After packing away the lunch Ultimate Hikes provided and putting on my raingear, I began the climb up the well- formed track. My raincoat would not come off for the rest of the day. I mostly hiked by myself throughout the afternoon. I enjoyed hiking through the lush moss-laden rainforest reminiscent of the Pacific Northwest. The moss here however is called goblin moss, the forest silver and red beech. I was in a world of green: emerald, jade, kelly, neon, aquamarine, seafoam, fern, gemstone, chartreuse, olive, lime, mint, moss, and viridian. 

Getting the packs ready for the first day of the hike. 

I did an online search of the psychology of color. Why are people more relaxed in green rooms? In my color research I found that time moves faster in a green room.  Green symbolizes nature. It is the easiest color on the eye and can improve vision. It is calming and refreshing. Green is life. Abundant in nature, green signifies growth, renewal, health and environment. It is restful and it denotes balance, harmony and stability. I’m not keen on spending a day in a green room, but the idea of being in a green rainforest for 3 days. Yes, I’d love that! 

Calm.

Renewing.

Refreshing.

I had a harmonious hike in the rainforest of green. I arrived at the Howden Hut sopping wet, but happy. After a cup of hot soup and hot cocoa, and a sandwich of egg salad, I headed off with some new found friends. I continued hiking for several more hours in the rain. My group of 4 separated as some of us stopped for photos, water or just to see what we could see. Without vistas, your vision IS renewed! Everything is up close and personal and you LOOK at things more closely.  It rained gently. It dumped rain. It drizzled. It poured. Rivulets of rain ran down my head. I was enjoying the shades of green and the lushness of my green environment.  

With my renewed vision, I almost tripped over  a heart moss . Is that goblin moss?

Warm, wet and wonderful--- that's me!

What color green do you see?

As the all-day rain swelled Earland Falls from a sizeable waterfall to a roaring cascade of water I arrived at the waterfall. Rock avalanches were worrisome, so I did not linger on the bridge at the falls. The powerful falls sent water pouring over my head!  As I negotiated my way through the previous rock avalanche, I was hoping that another one would not smash me. Rain makes rivers and lots of rain makes waterfalls wild!

Earland Falls crashing down. Wow!

Yes... simply amazing!

When a rockslide happens, you quickly get out the tape and add to the sign so everyone knows the situation. 

Without the all day rain, a cloudless sunny day would not have produced these stunning waterfalls. Hooray for rain!

Before I knew it, I had arrived at my destination, Mackenzie Lodge. After a nice welcome by the hosts and a warm shower, I used the wringer to get the moisture out of my clothes and hung everything in the drying room (wonderful invention). That evening, I dined on salmon salad, lemon chicken and stir-fried vegetables. I got to know some of my fellow hikers from Australia as we chatted about travel. I love meeting strangers when I travel this planet as I always learn about new places that I NEED to visit! ~!(:  ) 

Color my world green.

Ako, welcoming the hikers to McKenzie Lodge with a smile and offering some treats.

Jo, wringing out the wet stuff. From there to the drying room.

My bunk.

Even the poles get to dry out.

After a nice day of hiking, relax in the main lodge with a beer or wine.

Amen. The drying room saved the day!

Our Schedule.

For dessert, we had the traditional New Zealand pavlova.

Entertainment: Pavlova eating contest! Our guide Natasha sets up the timer! It was inhaled in seconds!